There truly is a movement to go back to the basics and the nostalgic here in Berlin. Ella, the Steigenberger’s new restaurant, is putting sustainability and tradition at the heart of a modern menu. Manuel Eich is at the helm of the hotel’s new gastronomical venture. At the recent press dinner to celebrate the opening, it was made evident that the right man was chosen for the job.
Following stints in Munich’s Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski and the Bayerischer Hof, Eich went far. By far, I mean Australia – to the Cairns Hilton to be exact. Upon his return to Germany, he worked in Berlin’s Maritim ProArte and the Seminaris Campus Hotel. He did one more stop at the Courtyard by Marriott in Munich, before he finally moved back to Berlin – to the Steigenberger Hotel Am Kanzleramt where he now heads Ella.
Choosing meat and ingredients within the region not only assures freshness. Eich and his team are also helping the local economy and the farmers in the area. With this in mind, Eich created an elevated menu of Berlin favourites.
“In no other German city the restaurant scene has so rapidly and positively developed as here in Berlin. With Ella between the Chancellery and the main station, we want to create a place where Berliners and tourists alike [can enjoy] Berlin cuisine in all its diversity and at its best”, said Gabriele Maessen, General Manager of the Steigenberger Hotel Am Kanzleramt.
The baked Landei (country eggs) served with radishes and celery was such a refreshing take on this breakfast staple. The humble kartoffelsuppe (potato soup) was transformed by the spice and flavours of merguez. And, before heading to the main course, we were given a kalbsbulette (calf meatball) nestled on top of pickled potato salad which was pretty much divine.
Fill up on protein
It’s not a proper German dinner without high-quality meat. The Havelländer organic flank steaks served in each table were soft, juicy, and perfectly cooked. Thank goodness they were served family-style. No matter how good it was, finishing one flank would have been quite the feat and food wastage is not something I was willing to put up with. The steaks had a light sweetness to them complemented by a port wine reduction.
Sides served with it include carrots, chipotle mayonnaise, grilled vegetables, and a delectable potato gratin.
We capped the evening with a Berliner cheesecake filled with plums and topped with soft meringue. Don’t let the meringue throw you off. This one is not too sweet and it actually has a slight, tarty taste.
Visit Ella if you’re looking for elevated Berlin cuisine and definitely for the steaks. As my friend and colleague Ute said that night, my Berlinification continues.
ELLA
The Steigenberger am Kanzleramt, Ella-Trebe-Straße 5, 10557 Berlin
For reservations, call: 030 7407430
Hours: Monday, 1200-1400, Tuesday-Friday, 1200-1400 and 1800-2300, Saturday, 1800-2300
Visit their website
More later.
**I was a guest at Ella but that does not – in any way – affect my review and opinions expressed in this article.
