There’s nothing like familiar flavours to bring back sweet memories of one’s childhood. Soups that our grandmas make, the stew your mom cooks whenever you’re sick, those snacks you devour the moment you get home from school. They’re flavours that you would recognise at almost any instance and would usually crave in the most random of moments. Luckily, Berliners living in Kreuzberg will have easy access to nostalgia whenever they want – thanks to newly-opened neighbourhood joint Lausebengel.
“What exactly is Berlin food?” I found myself asking foodie friend and journalism colleague Ute Schirmack and Lausebengel owner Janosch Thomsen one late summer afternoon. The city has always drawn an international crowd that it’s impossible to just zero in on your German classics. What you’ll find at Lausebengel, however, is food that’s actually consumed by true-blue Berliners while growing up – and Thomsen prides himself for being one.
A true blue neighbourhood joint
“I actually grew up a few doors away from this place,” Thomsen said over drinks. Opening a restaurant in Graefekiez felt more of a homecoming for the born and raised Kreuzberger. “I went to school here and played in that playground,” he said while pointing at the small spielplatz across the restaurant. The former tenant of the space Lausebengel now occupies was the kiez‘ neighbourhood bar that served drinks for locals for over three decades before retiring last year.
While they did encounter a bit of resistance from people who were anti-gentrification, Thomsen was actually able to convince their neighbours that Lausebengel would be an asset to the community. Serving true local favourites and attracting business as well as other Berliners to the area, they make sure to keep prices fair.
The Capital in a (food) nutshell
If you’re someone who really wants the Berlin experience, Lausebengel is one of the places in the city to go. “I guess my Berlinification is now complete,” I muttered in the middle of dinner with a mouthful of Senf Ei. The dish, whose name literally translates to ‘mustard egg’, is a Berlin classic. Something I’ve never heard of until I left my expat bubble and started talking to real Berliners.
Mustard and eggs might seem bizarre but after reminding myself that I said this about ketchup-and-fried-eggs but ended up liking it anyway, I knew I had to give it a try. The flavours are definitely interesting – tangy yet creamy. A light crunch, brought to you by the toasted toppings, and the mustard scent balanced by some herbs. Served as an open-faced sandwich, it’s definitely begging for a photo.
The herring or matjes is not to be overlooked as well. Lightly pickled, the sweet flavours of the fish are complemented by the green apples, dill, and cucumbers. Each bite is refreshing and somehow, doesn’t feel as sinful.
It was the dish named Lausebengel (yes, like the restaurant itself), that turned out to be my number one. I know, it sounds as basic as the next millennial whose favourite colour is blush pink. However, this plate of fish fingers, remoulade, peas, and creamy mashed potatoes felt like a hug in my mouth. It’s familiar but somehow new. Like a home away from home.
Ah, the blutwurst. The German sausage that a part of me wanted to try. However, I was also rather scared that I won’t like it and would end up having to make excuses when I ‘accidentally’ spit it out. If you have similar qualms, I have to say Lausebengel has the answer – blutwurst but less intimidating. It’s served with some apple sauce to add a bit of sweetness if needed. Glad to report I have now crossed the blood sausage out of my ‘Things to experience in Germany’ list. And I’ll surely order it again next time I’m at the restaurant.
Berliner Happen = Berlin Tapas
A bit of everything never really hurt anyone. So if you want to leave the restaurant with a smug smile and a Facebook status of how much of a Berliner you are now, ordering their smaller bites is the way to go.
You can get potato and cucumber salads, a smaller portion of the senf ei without the bread, and the matjes. There’s also a goat cheese and red cabbage dish that’s perfect for easing your way into eating rotkohl which, if I hear correctly, is a requirement of the ausländerbehörde for staying here.
I kid, I kid.
The Berliner Knaacker sausages are juicy and worth the calories. If you think you’re done with sausages, I urge you to still try this one.
One döner to rule them all – for now
Yes, I know I wrote about Berlin’s most famous döner stand a couple of years back. And, as expected, I’ve cheated on it quite a number of times with other döners and dishes of similar nature. Can a true foodie ever stay loyal to just one type of dish? I doubt it. Meeting the Lausebengel’s version of a döner was quite the experience as what’s inside is a.) hardly halal and b.) made a world of difference because I’ve never tried anything like it.
The Kassler Kebap contains salted, slightly smoked – hold your breath for this – pork. Sweetened with some onions and with sauerkraut, herbs, and mustard sauce added to the mix, it’s a whole new flavour profile. I love salty-smokey taste of the meat which pairs really well with the bread.
Of course, there’s beer!
Lausebengel is the place to go if you’re someone who loves beer but doesn’t want to get intimidated. They also have a beer sommelier if you have questions or just want to improve your education about the drink. It’s not Germany after all without having a cold one. Not a beer drinker? Ask for their watermelon beer or their coconut cider.
Lausebengel
Grimmstraße 21, 10967 Berlin
BAR
Mon-Fri 1700-0000, Sat -Sun 1600-0000
KITCHEN
Mon-Fri 1700-2200, Sat-Sun 1600-2200 (Mondays and Tuesdays exclusively Berliner tapas menu)
Call for reservations: 030 22474391
Visit their website
More later!
**All photos taken by AugustaLeigh.com and provided by Lausebengel.
**I was a guest at Lausebengel but that does not – in any way – affect my review and opinions expressed in this article.
