Canadian-born Zed Marke has been living in Berlin long enough to be considered a local. Utterly caucasian, what might surprise people is how this man has actually been feeding Berliners with great Indian food these past years. From a stall in a markthalle and now in his own joint in Kreuzberg called Moksa.
I admit – I was sceptical at first. Who is this non-Indian guy and why is he feeding me tandoori? Can he make really good Indian food? Won’t all the pseudo-woke people have a problem with this? But if there’s anything living in a truly globalised world and spending time in a city as diverse as Berlin taught me – it is never one’s skin colour that determines what you can or can’t do. As long as you learn and know how to do it right and you don’t undermine others.
It’s quite safe to say that Marke grew up Indian. In Vancouver, yes. However, he lived in a predominantly immigrant neighbourhood which opened his eyes and palate at an early age. His neighbours often shared their food and even taught him how to make them on his own while growing up. From there he did not rest. He started to work in gastronomy and even travelled to India to formalise his learnings on the cuisine. Not only did his cooking get even better, he came back as a spice collector and connoisseur.
Entering Moksa, you’ll be greeted right away by the till where you can also place your order. It’s a small space and you might have to squeeze yourself in if there are people already lined up for food. To the side is bench-style sitting for a small group. Up the stairs leads you to a two-stool bar for a quick meal and more benches at a back area that allows for more space. Currently, only Marke and his colleague Ahmed Ali are running the place. So it’s truly a lot of work and sacrifice.
What to eat
Moksa is an affordable Indian food joint. For the quality of what you’ll be eating, the prices go beyond reasonable. This, Marke says, is to keep the dishes accessible. Rice bowls, quesadillas and wraps, and my favourite Tandoori chicken, will set you back between eight to 10 Euros.
Zed’s expertise in spices makes for amazing chutneys that go with their sourdough naan (and practically with everything on their menu). My personal favourite is the pistachio and coriander chutney – refreshing and is a great complement to the butter chicken.
The tamarind and date chutney is great for people who want to tone down spice in some dishes and the menacingly red Jolo chutney is to be avoided if you’re a bit of a lightweight when it comes to scharf-ness. When Zed says it’s spicy, he means it. And not just in European standards. One drop was enough to make me believe that my tongue was on fire.
The butter chicken is tasty, with a creamy texture. Cooked in an actual, tandoori oven, the meat is juicy with the spices soaked all the way through for flavour. My Indian food education is something I will always thank Kuala Lumpur and one of my best friends there – Arpita – for. I can honestly say that Zed’s food would pass Arpita’s standards and that’s a compliment I’m not willing to give lightly.
Great for vegans and carnivores
The vegan option, Beyond Keema, will not make you miss meat at all. Same as their tempeh bowl. If you’re a carnivore wanting to lessen your carbon footprint without missing any of the flavour, Moksa has these options for you.
If you’re feeling rather famished, the Naanwich is a great way to fix that. The sourdough naan is definitely heavy on the stomach and they also don’t scrimp on the filling either. Like with the bowls and the Parathadia, you can opt for butter chicken, pork vindaloo, goat keema, tempeh, smashed eggplant, or vegan meat to fill your naanwich.
Personally, I’d order the Parathadia variant as it’s a little less heavy compared to the Naanwich but just as good. I love the texture of the bread as well and it’s an easier bite. The Parathadia also comes with cheese and is reminiscent of Mexico’s quesadillas – one of my go-to dishes for quick, easy, and comforting meals.
Moksa also offers a Bengali dessert called Mishti Doi. A sweet, caramelised probiotic yoghurt. It’s not too sweet but comes with a strong, tarty flavour. Made from scratch like everything else in the restaurant, it encourages the health of good bacteria in your stomach’s lining. A dessert that’s actually good for you and doesn’t come with evil, white sugar from stores.
I’ll keep this short and sweet but I hope what’s on here was enough to pique your interest. Visit Zed and Ahmed in Kreuzberg. You won’t regret the calories.
Moksa
Oranienstraße 200, 10999 Berlin
Hours: Monday-Friday 1200-2200, Saturday 1800-2200, Closed on Sundays
Call for a reservation: +49 176 87772138
More later.
**I was a guest at Moksa but that does not – in any way – affect my review and opinions expressed in this article.
