Video: Medinis in Heiligendamm – Perfect Day Trip from Berlin

Will you travel for good food? I think it’s one of the best excuses to get off your lazy bum, hop on a train, and discover a new place and some flavours. Last month, I found myself doing just that. We (and by we, I mean my friend Ute along with a couple of other food journalists) were on an important mission around mid-June. We took a short trip to see whether Medinis, the new Italian restaurant facing the Baltic Sea, was worth the trek from Berlin.

Welcome to Medinis

It’s not that far but it’s not a hop across the pond either. We took the Deutsche Bahn to Rostock and was fetched at their Hauptbahnhof by a van. A short drive later, we were in Heiligendamm. A seaside resort town that’s been around since the late 1700s, it’s a popular destination for royalty to relax and unwind when the sun was out. It recently got a facelift as well. A fancy, new hotel, modernised villas, and dining options can be seen right by the sandy beaches.

The ‘White City by the Sea’

Chef Luigi Frascella who used to head private members’ club ‘Harry’s Bar’ in London was convinced to move to the idyllic location and set up his own restaurant there by real estate mogul Anno August Jagdfeld himself. Jagdfeld is currently redeveloping Heiligendamm and was convinced Frascella’s talent was what he needed for the new restaurant in the complex.

“I love it here. My wife, my daughter – they are happy living here,” Frascella said with a contented smile on his face. “The sunsets are always different, the produce is fresh. It’s a beautiful place.” As the ‘Perlenkette’ (pearl necklace) villas next door are given a new lease on life, Frascella gets to run his restaurant nearby. And it seems nothing makes him happier.

While al fresco dining at Medinis gives you a wonderful view of the Baltic Sea, Germany’s unpredictable weather is not enough reason for you to eat at home instead. The restaurant’s interior is utterly divine. Mr Jagdfeld’s wife, famed interior and landscape designer Anne Maria Jagdfeld, created a cosy yet elegant space for windy evenings and even chilly days.

For foodies and families looking for a special meal during their beach holiday, it looks like the most wonderful setting. “It’s not easy to keep an elegant restaurant next to the beach,” Frascella admitted. “It’s usually a casual setting near the water.”

Their team, however, succeeded in creating a sophisticated, inviting space that won’t intimidate.

The most calming combination of blue and white dominate the interior. It reminds people of the vastness of the sky and the sea. Huge windows allow light to filter in while giving you an undisturbed view of the Baltic Sea. Outdoor seats were made to be lower than those inside to allow diners sitting indoors a slice of the view as well.

Classic Italian

Chef Luigi Frascella with his Parmesan and Pepper Breadsticks wrapped in Prosciutto

The Jagdfelds didn’t court Frascella for his expertise for nothing. An Italian was needed to run an Italian restaurant.

But it’s much more than that.

Frascella’s talent in making dishes from his motherland has the power to make you feel at home – and I’m not even Italian. Is comfort an ingredient he imports as well? One can only wonder.

Paired with the view, the warm breeze, and great company that day, I found myself feeling so relaxed with a mouthful of potato salad and truffle shavings.

My type-A personality hardly ever allows me to just let go and enjoy moments during the day but I was doing just that.

Maybe living by the sea and eating Frascella’s creations daily is the answer to fully getting rid of my anxieties?  Ah, that would be the dream.

Only the best

Bread freshly made in-house, truffles shaved on to your plate, balsamic vinegar on tables brought in from a small producer in Modena. It’s in the little things, after all. As for their source in Germany, bio farm Gut Vorder Bollhagen is just a kilometre down the road.

“They provide our ingredients. The chickens are moved every 10 days and they get to feed near the sea. Grass in this area is also saltier which makes the meat taste better,” Frascella said.

Peperoni Arrosto Marinati e Acciughe

The Peperoni Arrosto Marinati e Acciughe even features anchovies from Spain. “I like the ones that come from the Atlantic Ocean,” Frascella said. “They have more muscle.”

As someone who loves anchovies to death but looks at bell peppers with disdain, I now know that the only place I’d let paprika anywhere near my mouth is if it’s from Medinis. The fish’s salty flavours gave the bell peppers a whole new flavour profile and I’m all for it.

Summer picks

It’s not an Italian meal without carpaccio and Frascella took his beef version to the next level by using mustard instead of the same old lemon juice. It’s got a slightly spicier kick than your usual and is balanced out by the parmesan. Divine.

For a healthier choice, I highly recommend the fish version (Branzino) which used sea bass, a lemon confit dressing, and was topped with vegetables. A refreshing, summer dish.

Insalata di Anguria

Speaking of refreshing, the Insalata di Anguria is something that you should order if you want something that says summer all over it. Sweet and salty at the same time. Creamy because of the feta but not cloying thanks to the miso dressing on top. A light crunch adds texture to each bite due to the fresh watermelons and salad.

Fiori di Zucca

Another favourite of mine from the whole meal is the Fiori di Zucca. Zucchini flower stuffed with ricotta cheese and honey cooked in a way that the flower becomes a light, crunchy shell. Cutting through it was such a joy and having the melted ricotta and honey in your mouth played into my bias for the sweet and salty combo. Just be careful that you don’t bite into it when it’s too hot so the ricotta won’t burn your tongue.

Heaven for pasta

Ravioli di Ossobuco

The bad thing about my job is how it elevates my standards for food. Sometimes, a little too much. After having Frascella’s Gnocchi Pomodoro e Basilico, I couldn’t make pasta at home knowing it would not taste remotely the same.

The cure to this is usually me going for a different cuisine for a week. (I went for Vietnamese and lots of Middle Eastern dishes before I could eat pasta again.) Helps your tastebuds forget a little.

I also enjoyed the Ravioli di Ossobuco and a version with sharp, sheep cheese.

If you want to see how they looked, check the three-minute video I posted above about our visit. You’ll see not just how the trip went but how creamy the sauces are.

Fruti di mare

“Steak or prawns?” Frascella asked the group. At this point, we were utterly full. But leaving Medinis without trying any of their grilled dishes would have been blasphemous. The decision was unanimous and we went for fresh, gigantic prawns, grilled in a Spanish Josper grill.

It was magical, especially with the spiced, salty salad it came with.

Gamberoni alla Griglia alla Pizzaiola

Sweetness as a weakness

I said we’re full but how can one leave without having dessert?

Truly a sweet ending to the whole trip. Frascella also picked the flower beside the lemon sorbet on the way to work.

Is it worth it?

As someone who will travel for food, you’ll probably think I’m biased when I say that it is. But really – I look at other gnocchis with sadness now.

For people looking for a meal that will impress even the pickiest Italian friend, this is also the restaurant for you.

I say make a trip out of it. Stay in the hotel, have a wonderful weekend by the sea, and enjoy the food. Time it with a special occasion and there won’t be any guilt over the calories and the money you’ll spend on multiple meals at Medinis. Once you try the food there, it will seem pointless to look elsewhere in the area. Yes, it is on the pricier side but for the quality and the service you get on this side of the world, it actually feels like a steal.

Medinis

Prof.-Dr.-Vogel-Straße 14, 18209 Bad DoberanProf.-Dr.-Vogel-Straße 14, 18209 Bad Doberan
Open daily from 1200-1500, 1800-2230
Call for reservations: 038203 400647
Visit their website

More later.