Before leaving Berlin, I had a series of dining experiences that are just too good not to share. After much struggle with moving a server to a different wifi network, I finally regained access to photos from those unforgettable evenings. So here are! Yes, I am the absolute queen of awful timing with this post falling within the extended lockdown in Berlin. However, I’m hoping this will keep people inspired and look forward to the reopening of restaurants in the city once things are much better. So let’s kick things off with Rutz – Marco Müller‘s three-Michelin star restaurant.

The announcement of the restaurant’s third star came right before the first Berlin lockdown. Such a shame, one might think. And it was, mostly for us who love amazing food. For Chef Müller, however, it only made the well-deserved hype bigger. Once lockdown was lifted, the seats were once again full all the way up to the second lockdown towards the end of 2020. I was there when it was announced. Quite heartbreaking for the dining scene which was starting to pick up at that point but the people understood its necessity. Frankly, the feeling of luck that I had while being there that night doubled. Especially since I was days away from leaving Berlin.

“Isn’t it fitting that Rutz gets to be the last restaurant you’ll visit during your posting in Berlin?” my friend Ute asked over our dinner. She did, after all, had to endure my constant chatter of wanting to go to Rutz and writing about it afterward. Variations of ‘Yes, finally!’ and ‘Saving the best for last’ were exchanged with a goofy smile plastered on my face the whole evening. It was probably the wine but I digress.

Upon entry, you’ll be greeted by one of the most impressive wine shelves in Berlin. Rutz, after all, is also pretty known for its wine bar and talented sommelier Nancy Großmann. While getting intimidated is pretty much assured by the sheer volume of what’s on offer, I can honestly say there’s no need to worry. There’s always Frau Großmann to take the lead when you opt for the alcoholic pairings. Which you really should (unless you’re driving) go for since their selection is pretty stellar.

The place itself is quite cozy with staff who have the keenest attention to detail in Berlin. Warm light, comfortable seats, cozy interiors, and tables opting out of the white table cloth. It’s as chill as fine dining can ever be. Das ist Berlin, after all.

Flexibility with the freshest, foraged fare

Rutz thrives in the originality of each dish and the way Chef Müller marries what the Scandinavians laid claim over as their thing – strictly locally-sourced everything – with German practicality and precision. Expect food that is exact and perfectly balanced in flavor profile and texture. Washed down with wine that excites then evens out the palate.

Eight courses will set you back by EUR 220 while six courses at EUR180. You have the flexibility of having the wine pairing option per course as they are offered by the glass. You have a young and dynamic pairing at EUR13 per glass or a matured and special option for those with more discerning and experienced tastes at EUR 21. Alcohol-free pairings are also available at EUR13 while water is offered for free.

Palate openers came in the form of a smoky cucumber-infused broth as well as a trio of chips that featured buckwheat and apple vinegar with kohlrabi, chicken heart and buttery carrots, and leek with mountain cheese. Each one offered flavors that were setting you up for the evening. The first course of clams & kingfish was served with a crunchy turnip and oxalis.

We quickly moved on to the baltic cod & kombu which was served with elderflower and walnut. I love how the creamy pool around the cod paired so well with the kombu. I’m a big seafood lover so there were no complaints when the cod was followed by the spring water trout with lardo, bottarga, and cauliflower. This was arguably the prettiest dish of the evening with the taste not falling too far behind its looks. Bottarga can sometimes be too overpowering for me but it was perfectly balanced in this course thanks to the freshness of the trout and the slight crunch from the cauliflower.

The heirloom tomatoes that came with garum and juniper were pretty unforgettable. Seems like a simple dish but the use of this ancient fish sauce brought back memories of living in Southeast Asia where its stronger, younger cousin is pretty much a staple in every kitchen. Garum is lighter in taste but boy, does it pack a lot of umami.

Bread break

Warm and oh-so-soft sourdough, homemade butter flavored with fennel and anise (also a great example of branding and detail right there), and the blood sausage roll that I still talk about months later. What a scene-stealer, that little roll was.

Sure, I took a bite right away and gobbled it up pretty quickly as I was eager to prove to Ute that I’m one ausländer who was never intimidated by blood sausage. But I do admit: I was pretty upset that it was gone too soon.

Main attractions

The kohlrabi course came in two parts. The first one had the German cabbage turnip served with whey and currants and was followed by hazelnut and bread for a nutty finish. Cabbage is never boring in the kitchen of a German chef who knows what he’s doing.

The veal was fresh without being gamey. This, I guess, was due to the sweetness from the onions. Like every dish on the menu, it was layered in textures that kept everything dynamic. A party in your mouth as young kids would say these days.

Chicken is rarely on a fine dining menu so I respect chefs who are willing to take on a challenge. The sauce was exquisite and it was after the first bite that it became evident why Chef Müller described the dish on the menu card as so: mushroom flavors, farm-raised chicken, and seaweed. The mushroom powder used in the sauce was an umami bomb that bound so well with the light-tasting, soft, and juicy chicken.

Licking your plate is the last thing you should be doing in public places. On a normal day, I’d be the first to judge you if I see you doing it. However, if you can’t help doing so for this dish then I might just turn a blind eye. I’ll also be slightly jealous that I will never have the courage to do the same no matter how much I wanted to.

The dessert was larch needles & wood, raspberry, and verbena. It wasn’t about winding down or capping off the meal. This dessert was rather exhilarating to the palate. Sweet, fruity, and fresh with a hint of creaminess. It’s as if it was telling me “This is not the end. We know you’ll be back soon.” And I would be. If only there’s no pandemic.

But thankfully, it doesn’t end there. You get to take a few sweet bites with you. Remember what I’ve been saying about attention to detail?

Rutz is a must-visit for any foodie’s Europe pilgrimage. If you’re a traveler or even an expat/diplomat who has limited time in Berlin, you better add it to your list. And don’t leave the city without trying it at least once.

You get what you pay for in this restaurant so forking up the 220 for an 8-course menu is something your wallet won’t sue you for later. It is the first three-Michelin star restaurant in the German capital with a solid 17 from the Gault Millau. Their wine pairings are at a steal as well and the source of my only regret for my 3 & 1/2 years in Berlin: I didn’t have time to come back for a fun wine night with the ladies at their wine bar.

It would always be part of the reason why I will come back for a visit when this Covid situation has finally blown over. Trust me on this.

Rutz

Chausseestraße 8, 10115 Berlin, Germany
Phone: +49 30 24628760
Website
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**I was a guest at Rutz but that does not – in any way – affect my review and opinions expressed in this article.

January 11, 2021