As a walking contradiction myself, I felt pretty much at home the moment I stepped into Golvet. The restaurant, headed by Michelin-star chef Björn Swanson, is filled with it. From the name which means ‘ground’ in Swedish when the restaurant is actually on the top floor of a building, to the menu, and down to the chef who’s basically an American-Berliner with a Swedish name.
Rules, after all, are made to be tweaked to accommodate change and progress. (Don’t break them entirely, people. You don’t want anarchy.) I am, however, getting ahead of myself.
The space used to be a club until the owners decided they needed to change things up, hit the refresh button, and focus on gastronomy instead. “The original plan was a steakhouse but after meeting Björn, the owners agreed to let him do his own thing,” my friend Ute told me over dinner that night.
The name was also a mistranslation that somehow worked out. ‘Golvet’ in Swedish means ‘ground’ or ‘earth’. It’s not the word Björn intended while fiddling with a digital translator. However, the name turned out to be perfect as the restaurant is completely down-to-earth.
From the open kitchen and the friendly banter you hear from the people making your food, to the democratised menu. Ingredients that come from Europe and from sources that value freshness and sustainability. It actually feels like coming to a friend’s place for dinner.
Drinks
We began the night with drinks at the restaurant’s impressive bar. Headed by bar manager Andreas Andricopoulos, they have the largest selection of Aquavit in Germany. About 30 kinds of it.
So if you’re a fan of the drink, a stool by the Golvet bar might just become your favourite place in the city.
I had that day’s special – a fruity daiquiri. Smooth, refreshing, and the perfect way to start the evening.
If you’re not up for having anything alcoholic (why?), go for the next best thing. The Salty Watermelon is a refreshing drink that’s exactly like a cocktail but without the consequences.
Casual Fine Dining
Unless we’re talking about Tim Ho Wan or the man selling one of the best noodles in a hawker centre in Singapore, a Michelin Star can be intimidating.
Especially here in Europe where chefs who sport the award still usually come with food that’s a bit on the pricier side and plating that can make any diplomat’s wife jealous.
White cloths over the tables, several wine glasses, and cutlery that come in multiples.
While these are things that I also appreciate, Golvet is a place one could escape to when you’re in the mood for fine dining but not the pomp and pageantry that comes with it.
I don’t know about you but even with my job, I can only do it thrice a week tops. After that, I need a good old break at a casual place.
Golvet’s chef is sick of the stuffiness a restaurant of a certain calibre can bring to mind. Swanson wanted a place for people who would come in for top quality food without getting intimidated.
In true, Berliner fashion, it’s a place that encourages you to come as you are. Unless who you are is an axe-murderer. Maybe that’s fine too as long as you don’t tell anyone and you’re on your day off when you come.
Members of the waitstaff are dressed comfortably but still – you know people who work there are professionals. But since this is Berlin, they’re also hip. The non-judging and smiling kind. There’s lots of room – about 90 seats – which basically invites everyone in. They also have a private room that can accommodate a bigger group in case you’re having your own party.
Golvet’s ‘Future’ Menu
While it’s possible to get dishes ala-carte, I would highly recommend trying Golvet’s menus that come in four and seven courses along with the wine pairings. The way the dishes come one by one building up like a glorious flavour crescendo is one of the best things about the whole experience.
We were served Golvet’s Future menu which consists of four courses. Before we got on it, however, we were served with dishes to get the palate ready for what’s to come.
A warm welcome
Light puff pastry with truffle mayo, a tapioca chip with raspberry caviar and sushi ginger, and a nacho with cheese cream holding the most delicate slice of a jalapeño. We were off to a good start.
The puff pastry was light, letting the truffle’s flavour take centre stage. The light crisp that came with the tapioca chip was such a great complement to the raspberry caviar. The cheese cream? Perfect pairing with the mild spice the jalapeño brought in.
Since one welcome dish was not enough, a savoury pannacotta in the most gorgeous colours arrived. The kohlrabi (cabbage turnip) and cashew nuts offered a distinct crunch to go with the refreshing notes of the dish.
While we wait, what would later become one of my favourite things from the restaurant was served. Salted caramel butter. Yep, you read that right. You’d think butter is already the best thing and it can’t get any better than the garlicky flavoured ones that became so popular a couple of years back. Well, apparently, it can.
Flavoured and whipped into a lighter, creamier version of it which made spreading a breeze, Golvet’s salted caramel butter is only available for consumption at the restaurant.
I thought about marching over to the kitchen to beg for a jar of it. Had to remind myself to maintain a bit of dignity since I was working that day.
The butter came with their own, soft sourdough bread and some radish. You all know what I went for, of course. #CarbsAreLife.
Appetiser
We began the actual menu with asparagus. If you’ve been to Germany during spring, you know that this is one of the things that can get Germans (and even expats who have lived here long enough) way more excited for Spring. Yes, that’s possible. Spargel has that superpower.
Swanson made the ubiquitous spargel even better by filling it with green tomatoes and tarragon. There’s also a tad of tabasco and Swedish bread for a bit of crisp. The curious green sauce was actually a basil hollandaise sprinkled with tomato dust. Fresh, green, delicious. Even for people who are not that into greens. “It’s how spring should taste like,” I told Ute in between bites.
The dish was paired with a glass of Weisser Hey 2018. A Pinot Bianco Riesling with a body that, when drank alone is pretty so-so but paired with the dish? It turns into a magical tonic that elevated the flavours.
Fish Course
A meaty carabinieri doused in a fine goulash sauce might just be my new favourite thing in the world. (Next to the butter I just mentioned) Cutting into that meat was almost as satisfying as tasting the flavours. I’ll let the photo do the talking in case you’re not convinced:
This was paired with a 1997 Geisenheim Rothenberg Riesling. A late harvest bottle, this dry wine has fruity notes and fine acidity which paired well with the meatiness of the carabinieri.
After this part of the meal, we were also served a palate cleanser in the form of a drink. Dill Aquavit mixed in with some Johnnie Walker, fennel, apricot, lemon, and a bit of sugar. It’s a stimulating drink with the dill Aquavit taking the reins, erasing the memory of the previous courses and getting you ready for the meal’s climax.
Meat course
A grilled entrecôte, perfectly cooked and seared on top to create the slightest crisp while keeping the meat underneath soft. Cutting into it releases more jus into the reduction poured right before we dug in. More asparagus?
Why, yes please. And no, we will never get tired of it. Mushroom cream and grass salad finish off the plate that looked ever so gorgeous and tasted even better. This course came with a glass of dry and fruity 2015 Hahn Pahlke Pinot Noir.
Pre-dessert
Because as we all know, you need a breather after a crescendo.
A small bowl of tofu and semolina came to help bring the adrenaline down.
It was, still, quite impressive.
With clementine and lime skin, the citrus aroma and the foam felt like air in one’s mouth. A great contrast to the coarseness of the semolina.
The dish wasn’t sweet – and that’s perfect. Its combination with the 2012 Királyudvar Tokaji Cuvee Patricia was pure elegance.
I love a good dessert wine and the honey notes and creaminess of the Királyudvar was enough to make me add an asterisk next to its name as I wrote on my notebook that day. That symbol simply means ‘buy bottle later’ – in case you’re wondering.
Dessert
Of course, we ended the meal on a sweet note. A dessert that’s not just perfect for Instagram but something my tastebuds thanked me for as well.
A bit of soda bread, whiskey, and cream of almond and hazelnut ice cream. A buttermilk doughnut topped with almonds and reduced soya sauce jelly. It’s a marriage of sweet and salty that makes you want to keep eating. It’s rich and creamy without getting too cloying.
We thought we were done but another plate came in. After all, one plate of dessert does seem a bit too mainstream. Thankfully, this one was rather small. My waistline was already giving up at this point but I charged it to the perils of my job and soldiered on. Just kidding. Do you think my mouth would let me stop after seeing chocolate? Aww, that’s cute.
A caramelised, chocolate parfait filled with vanilla cream. Mousse-y on top, hard on the edges, and soft on the inside. Pretty much like that boy you’ve had a crush on in high school. This, however, was much more delicious and will not disappoint you at any point in your life.
Service
I spent much of my life in Asia where hospitality and amazing service is part of the business culture. So my standards, I must say, are pretty high. ‘Service wasteland’ is a phrase thrown around about Berlin quite often. A lot of people travelling to this city have heard of horror stories – rude waitstaff, angry cashiers, store staff that are not that helpful. You name it.
I was given the same briefing before our move and in fact, I was recently disappointed by one of the people at Habel am Reichstag. This was such a shame as I enjoyed my previous visit. But that’s me digressing yet again as that’s for another post.
To be utterly fair, living in Berlin for two years now has led me to quite a number of restaurants that have friendly staff who also know their thing.
Golvet’s people, I must say, are exceptional. Friendly without being too in your face, the staff gives you the feeling that they’re actually happy that you’re there.
They talk about the menu the way you’d talk about your favourite child and they would chat with you if that’s your thing. It’s also quite an international team so if your Deutsch is nicht so gut, there’s no need to worry.
Why You Should Go to Golvet
Head to Golvet for that special dinner. For that anniversary date, to celebrate your dad’s nth golf tourney winnings, for your teenaged daughter’s birthday, or to celebrate your dog learning a new trick. When you want to treat your colleagues or impress your boss. It’s a place that can welcome any age.
Head to Golvet when you want a good drink or when you feel like treating yourself to a great dinner that you’ll be talking about with your foodie friends for weeks.
Go for the amazing view of Potsdamer Platz and the Berliner Philharmonie. Having a cocktail while gazing through the window on a warm evening is just pure perfection. I’m already making plans with friends for ladies’ night in a few weeks. Go because the food and the experience as a whole are worth it.
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Golvet
Potsdamer Strasse 58, 10785 Berlin
Open from Tuesdays to Saturdays, 19:00 till midnight
Phone: 030 89064222
Click here to reserve a table
Visit their website
**I was a guest at Golvet but that does not – in any way – affect my review and opinions expressed in this article.
